Bezel Set Engagement Rings: Designs and Advice
A bezel setting in an engagement ring is when a thin piece of metal (typically the same material as your band) wraps around the diamond or gemstone. So instead of having prongs that hold the gemstone, it is the bezel.
Bezel set engagement rings are becoming increasingly popular, and not just because of its durability. Its sleek finish gives any engagement ring a more modern look. They are great for people with an active lifestyle, and looks great with those interested in elongated cuts like emeralds, baguettes and marquise diamonds or gemstones. They often remind us of the art deco era and you can definitely lean into this by playing with less common diamond shapes and features such as milgrain, side stones and complementary diamond bands.
What do Bezel Set Engagement Rings look like?
Below are seven examples of a bezel set engagement rings:
Design 1
This ring design features an hexagonal cut emerald engagement ring in platinum with a full bezel set. It also features pave diamonds.
We love the fact that the band follows the bezel around the solitaire centre stone and that the diamonds that run along the band to give the ring a bit of sparkle. We can’t wait to see what our client decides on the wedding ring.
We also designed one similar in gold also using a hexagonal cut emerald stone.
Design 2
Bezel set rings also work really well with thick bands (also becoming more popular) and coloured stones. Below is a 1.5 carat equivalent emerald shaped green moissanite held by a half bezel set in a 14k yellow gold band.
Notice how the bezels are raised from the rest of the band. We believe that this is going to be a trend in 2024.
Design 3
Bezel set engagement rings don’t need to be solitaire designs. They can be three stone engagement rings, or even more. Below is an example of a 1.5 carat equivalent emerald cut green sapphire centre stone with two accenting colourless diamonds all with a full bezel set in 14k yellow gold.
Design 4
Another example of a multi-stone engagement ring playing into the art deco style is this nine stone cocktail ring featuring a green moissanite centre stone with eight colourless half bezel moissanites in a 14k yellow gold band. What is interesting about this ring is that the centre stone has a prong setting whereas the accenting stones have half bezels — a great testament to the art deco era!
Design 5
Bezel isn’t reserved just to women’s bands. Below is an example of how we used a half bezel setting for a men’s wedding band. And yes, you guessed it, its another emerald stone.
Design 6
Full bezel set diamond engagement rings can look outstanding especially if you are willing to go a little bit out there in terms of shape. Below is an example of a heart cut diamond solitaire engagement ring featuring a full bezel setting held in 14k rose gold. And while many believe that a heart cut diamond is a little tacky, by adding a full bezel it definitely oozes sophistication.
If you are interested in heart shaped engagement ring styles, we recommend you read a bit more about the heart cut them before buying. Because it is a fancy cut, you can’t rely on the 4Cs, and it is for this reason that you should work with a respected jeweller.
Design 7
While emeralds and white diamonds do feature heavily when it comes to bezel settings, it doesn’t mean that other colours can’t pull it off.
Below is a seven stone diamond engagement ring. The centre stone features a 1.5 carat Oval cut yellow sapphire with six accenting baguette cut diamond stones in descending sizes, in a 14k yellow gold band.
We love this bold use of both curved and straight lines to create a very interesting juxtaposition! So much so, we did a similar design in a Alexandrite.
What to look out for with bezel set rings
Ensure for a clean finish
Bezel settings lose their allure if they are not parallel and snug to the diamond or gemstone. You also won’t get compliments if the bezel doesn’t have sharp edges. You can ensure that you get a great finish by working with a respected jeweller. With some large retail and online stores, they have pre-made bands and try and fit the bezel to the diamond or gemstone, and not the other way around. In such a case, you can get bezels that are not exactly perpendicular to the diamonds, or with the bezels not having sharp edges.
Light performance is key
Bezels stop light from entering from the side of the diamond or gemstone. And with smaller diamonds or gemstones, the sparkle can be compromised by the bezel. It is for this reason many of the designs that we have shown that we have done are all above 1 carat.
With bezel set rings, size does matter
Because bezels envelopes around the edges of the diamond or gemstone, it can make it appear smaller. It is why we mostly suggest bezel settings for elongated shapes such as ovals, emeralds, marquise and baguettes. And while there is nothing wrong with adding a bezel to shapes like the round, hexagonal or heart, we would recommend you consider at least a 1 carat.
Advantages of bezel set rings
Easier to clean
Because bezels hold the diamond snug and right around the edge of the diamond, bezel set rings are relatively easy to clean. Dust and specks don’t get stuck like they do with prongs. A simple wipe with a damp cloth typically does the trick.
Protects the diamond
Prong settings typically leave the diamond more exposed, and prone to chipping especially for elongated shapes such as Marquise and Pear. When we deal with Marquise and Pear-shaped diamonds or gemstones, we typically ensure that there is a partial bezel at the tips so that they points don’t chip. If a diamond or gemstone chips, there is no way of putting it back together. You will need to get another stone.
It suits those with active lifestyles
Bezel set rings suit those with an active lifestyle. The diamond or gemstone is well protected and with a low setting, ensures that you can wear your ring and still participate in all the activities that you love. But bear in mind, just because you have a full bezel ring doesn't mean that your ring is indestructible. We highly recommend that you take off your ring when you are playing sports, gardening, cooking or any activity you feel you could hurt yourself or others with your ring.
Common Questions
If you are thinking about a bezel set diamond ring, you can come along to our showroom in Auckland, New Zealand to see some of our collection pieces that are full bezel set. You will need to make an appointment before you come in and you can on our contact page.
Because bezels stop light coming in from the sides, they can appear slightly less sparkly than those that are prong-set.
Bezel set rings are actually more durable than prong set rings. This is because the diamonds are set snug — right around against the metal (typically gold). This makes it less likely for the diamond or gemstone to become loose, especially over the long term.
Some jewellers charge extra for a bezel setting. At Four Words, your choosing bezel or a prong setting has no impact on the final price.
At Four Words, our preference is yellow gold, rose gold and platinum. While we can use white gold, its colour can fade to a dirty yellow and it does require replating every two or three years. While this is cheaper in the short term, it does cost more over the long term when compared to platinum which requires close to no maintenance.
Setting a diamond in an east-west orientation means positioning the diamond horizontally, perpendicular to your finger, rather than the traditional vertical alignment from palm to fingertip.
This orientation can significantly change the personality of your ring, particularly for elongated diamond shapes.
While round or square diamonds may not differ much, an east-west setting can make an elongated diamond appear larger, giving your ring a more distinctive and eye-catching look.
East-west engagement rings are a popular style for placing a modern twist on a classic design.
